Year in Israel


Hiking near the Dead Sea

In March, Jess and I went with some friends hiking near the Dead Sea.

Trip to the Negav

At the end of March, HUC took the students on a trip to the Negav. This included going to a solar facility, hiking, hanging out in a tourist Bedouin tent, and going to 2 kibbutzim.

Birkat Hahammah

According to Wikipedia: Birkat Hachama (ברכת החמה, “Blessing of the Sun“) refers to a Jewish blessing that is recited in appreciation of the Sun once every 28 years, when the vernal equinox, as calculated by tradition, falls on a Tuesday at sundown. Jewish tradition says that when the Sun completes this cycle, it has returned to its position when the world was created.

This happened on April 7, 2009.

Paris, France

For Passover break, Jess and I met her mom and Aunt for 5 days in Paris. We explorer Musee D’Orsay, the Louvre, Versailles, Arc Du Triumphe, and eat a ton of great food. After they left, it happened that my old friend Julie and her husband were going to be in Paris for a few days, so we met up with them. Here are the pictures:

Pyramid in front of the LouvreArch outside of the LouvreArc de TriompheJess, Jan, and Judy in front of the Arc de TriompheUnder the Arc de TriompheNames of the soldiersMore namesArc de TriompheTomb of the Unknown SoldierArc de TriompheObelisk in Place De La ConcordeStreets of ParisFunny stop lightStreets near Place De La ConcordeJardins Des Tuileries near the LouvreEiffel Tower lit up at nightStatue of LibertyStatue of Liberty with the Eiffel Tower in the distanceEiffel Tower at NightA belated birthday cakeNotre-DameClock inside of Musee D'OrsayMusee D'OrsayCeiling of Musee D'OrsayLife imitating artClock inside Musee D'OrsayElaborate room inside Musee De OrsayView of Sacre Coeur from the Musee D'OrsayFound my storeGotta love these signsChateau de VersaillesChateau de VersaillesGardens behind VersaillesFountains in the GardensFountains in the Gardens of VersaillesFountains in the Gardens of VersaillesFountains in the Gardens of VersaillesGates of VersaillesPaintings inside of VersaillesJess looking cuteCeiling near VersaillesGardens outside VersaillesCeiling of VersaillesHall of Mirrors inside of VersaillesMore paintings inside VersaillesVersaillesInside the Napoleon quarters in the LouvreVenus de MiloVenus de MiloVenus de Milo

This is not an article posted by me. From what I have heard, the American coverage of Gaza has been extremely biased. So here is a blog from a woman living 1 mile away from Gaza in Sderot. Sderot is the city that has been bombed for the last 6+ months.

This comes from the official Sderot Movie Website

Wartime in Israel: What it looks like from Sderot

January 6th, 2009

These have been interesting days. For the last week, I’ve wanted to write my experiences and share them with all of you. To be honest, it’s been hard to concentrate. I’ve been busy — I’ve been trying to capture as much as possible with my video camera. I used to have a crew, but my two usual shooters are afraid to come to Sderot right now. So I’m on my own, except for my husband, who has become my assistant cameraperson because he won’t let me out of his sight. We’ve made a pact to try to stay together as much as possible so we don’t worry about each other.

I want to describe what it looks like – and sounds like –- from here.

Every morning, we are awakened by the Tzeva Adom alert. This is one of the most bizarre air raids in history. It starts with the click of a loudspeaker, and then a calm woman’s voice says “Tzeva Adom (Color Red), Tzeva Adom (Color Red)” over and over again. The alert has been difficult to hear at times, especially if you were playing music or watching TV. Last week, two soldiers from the Home Command Unit appeared at our door and handed us a home beeper system that goes off two seconds before the Tzeva Adom alert. So now the loud beeper sound is added to the repertoire.

The moment of the alert, my husband Avi and I jump out of bed and run to our Mamad – our bomb shelter. We huddle there and hug each other waiting to hear the explosion. Sometimes it’s a distant thud. Sometimes it is terrifyingly close, and our house shakes. After about twenty seconds, it’s over. They say that you have a fifteen second warning. Actually, it varies. And once in a while, you will hear a Qassam land without a Tzeva Adom alert. Those are the worst times, because that means there is a very decent chance that someone has been hurt.

Here in Sderot, we are accustomed to Tzeva Adom alerts on a weekly and even daily basis. But last week, the situation reached a new level. On Wednesday, December 24, we received over 60 rockets. The following Saturday, we heard a new sound – airstrikes. It was a strange moment. Finally, after eight years, Israel was taking action. Since then, the Qassam attacks have been endless. In the old days, we knew there could be a Tzeva Adom alert. Now we know there will be.

This week, there have been approximately 10 Tzeva Adom alerts in Sderot every day (some days more, some days less.) Keep in mind – each Tzeva Adom is accompanied by two to four exploding rockets.

So this is how we live. We stay alert at all times. If Avi takes a shower, I need to be nearby listening for the alert, ready to grab him out of the shower if need be (and vice versa). If we drive somewhere, we tune our radio to channel 104, the army channel. All Tzeva Adom alerts are broadcast on that station, so you can immediately get out of your car and run for cover. We also drive with seat belts off, and windows open, just in case. (Several of the people who have died from Qassams were in their cars when the attack occurred.)

Where do we run? Well, Sderot is pretty well prepared. There are bomb shelters of every shape and size everywhere you look – almost every ten meters you have one. The idea is that you are always within fifteen seconds of a shelter. However, this concept is flawed in its execution. Some areas are covered with shelters. But some residential streets have none. If you are on a residential street in the middle of a Tzeva Adom alert, you run into the nearest house. This is what happened today. As we heard the alert, we saw a flash of two people in front of our house. We ran, opened the door, and the two young guys followed us, running into our bomb shelter. We waited to hear the explosions, they thanked us and were on their way.

Another issue – not all homes have bomb shelters. In fact, several of my friends don’t have one, and fifteen seconds are not long enough for them to reach the public shelter. They usually crouch under a stairwell hoping everything will be okay.

But ironically, Sderot is probably the safest place in Southern Israel at the moment. Because now the entire South is being hit: Ashkelon, Ashdod, Be’er Sheva, and Netivot, among others… We have friends in these cities, and when the bombs started to fall there, they were in shock for days. They are less prepared than us. There are not bomb shelters lining the streets of these towns, but fewer, larger community shelters where now many people are sleeping. While we definitely feel a sense of solidarity, the fact that large part of the country is living much like us – running for shelter and fearing for their lives – creates a whole new sad reality.

When I first came to Sderot I didn’t run to the shelter. The threat seemed so random. It seemed almost impossible that you were going to be hurt. The fear of Qassams is something that takes a while. It grows on you. Because now, I know too many people with near misses. I have a friend who reluctantly left his bed to go the shelter. He was lucky he decided to go, because the Qassam landed directly on his bed, where he had been sleeping a few seconds earlier. I have another friend who miraculously survived a Qassam hit on her house. She is okay after massive rehab, but she has shrapnel in her brain that is too deep to remove. And I have friends who have seen people killed by Qassams – right before their eyes.

I often feel that the international press doesn’t get it. They make light of the rockets. Because when you come to Sderot for one day, the attacks seem random and you feel somehow immune from harm. The words “amateur homemade rockets” that I see written in most major news publications, make the threat seem less serious. But the fact is, these rockets are nothing other than bombs, falling from the sky, designed to kill civilians. And they do.

The press usually focuses on the number of dead people. If these Qassams are really dangerous, why haven’t more people died? Good question. Thousands of lives have been saved by the 15-second warning system. With over 10,000 rockets that have landed in this area in the past eight years, there would most likely be hundreds killed if not thousands. But the fact that we know when the rockets are coming, saves our lives. Still, is this any way to live? Can you imagine this happening in any city in America or Europe?

On Sunday, I filmed a home that had been completely destroyed that morning. It was a small, three-room place. No bomb shelter, but miraculously, the room where the owner took cover wasn’t hit. The rest of the house was demolished. I’ve seen tons of footage of destroyed homes in Sderot, and filmed in broken houses. But I had never set foot on fresh rubble just a few hours old. I was shaken. That house was struck by a Qassam, which is approximately 6-8 kilos of explosives attached to a metal tube with fins. Last night we were informed of new intelligence that Hamas intends to begin shooting Grads into Sderot. Grads are twice the size of Qassams and are what Hamas uses to bomb the further cities like Ashkelon, Ashdod, and Be’er Sheva. Now you know why my cameraman has headed out of town.

Besides the Qassams, there are other developments. Being about one mile away from Gaza, we can hear everything. The insanely loud sound of bombs being dropped from airplanes, F-16s, helicopters, helicopter guns, mortars, tank shells… these sounds have now become the soundtrack of our lives.

When I first came here over a year and a half ago, Sderot was almost like a ghost town. Now the international media has descended on us in droves. There are TV trucks and cameramen everywhere you look, and reporters from every network, broadcasting in every language from the hilltops and town corners. At least my friends who own Coffee To Go, the local café, are finally getting some business. (When I first arrived here and hadn’t yet found a house, Avi used to joke that I was single-handedly keeping the place afloat.)

For me it’s interesting. Sderot is a small place, and after a while, you recognize most people you see in the supermarket, café or falafel stand. For months I must have seemed to Sderot’s citizens like “that strange American girl wandering around with a camera.” Now after a year here, I feel like a local. With the town full of foreigners, I really feel like this is my town. That I am one of the people that they are here to film, running to the bomb shelter during a Tzeva Adom alert.

All around, you just feel war. People stay in their houses, schools are closed. “Learning Together,” a wartime television program broadcasts daily high school classes for kids who can’t go to school. The classes are taught by famous Israeli writers, poets, and philosophers.

The war is the only thing people talk about. It’s hard to get things done. It’s hard to keep ourselves from watching the news all day. And the weirdest thing is to watch the news about something that just happened a block away. When you realize that you are the news. Two nights ago we sat in Coffee To Go for dinner. Suddenly, Tzeva Adom. We ran to the interior of the room, away from the glass storefront. The Qassam exploded just across the street — the café rocked with the blast. Journalists who had been on a coffee break raced out to try and get their shots. Five minutes later, a large-screen TV above our heads was broadcasting the update from Sderot – including what we had just felt and heard.

This morning Avi looked at me and said, “It’s impossible to relax, to have fun, to enjoy life. The war just makes life stop. We aren’t living right now. We are only surviving.” I know he’s right. I’m trying to think of it as an experience that we are going through that will make us stronger. That everything is going to be okay.

Its very sad and depressing for us to hear the loud explosions in Gaza and to know that there is no way for innocent civilians not to be killed in this war. But most of us also feel that finally the government is doing what it needs to do to defend us. I get emails from people and read articles calling Israel’s response “disproportionate.” It upsets me. I feel they just don’t have a clue. What would be a proportionate response? For us to shoot unmanned missiles targeted at civilians every day? Instead, we are doing something more effective and humane – we are taking away their weapons. We are bombing their stockpiles, tunnels, and terror infrastructure. We are sending SMSs and leaflets warning civilians to leave areas that will be bombed. And we are doing what we need to do to stay alive. From this corner of the State of Israel, it is obvious that if we don’t do something now, we are looking at an existential threat. If anyone has any doubts about that, then I invite them to come live with me here in Sderot. I have an extra bed and am happy to offer it. I guarantee they will change their mind once they’ve spent a few days in my living room.

Last week, before the war started, I did an interview with Yossi Cohen, an established Sderot musician who plays bass in Avi’s band and has a band of his own. He’s had his own share of trauma – he now suffers a hearing loss from a Qassam that landed right near him, and has anxiety and depression as a result of another close landing that killed someone. He also happens to be one of the nicest people I know. Yossi works for the city (his day job) doing landscaping projects. He took me to his most recent work of art. It was a bomb shelter — one I had passed a million times. But now it had been painted a nice shade of brown, and was covered with panels of green vines. Design-wise, it looked like something you would see in Palm Springs. It seemed so surreal to create designer bomb shelters. Yossi explained that someone thought it would be a good idea to boost morale. These kind of absurdities run amok in Sderot.

A few meters away, was a smaller bomb shelter with graffiti spray painted on it. I asked Yossi what it said (my Hebrew still not up to par). It says “Secede from the pathetic state.” Yossi added, “I know the person who wrote it.”

This sort of sentiment wasn’t unusual in Sderot. When I first arrived, I was told by many residents that this was a city without a state. And last year friends told me they were not planning to put up a flag on Yom Haatzmaoot (Israel’s Independence Day.) Sderot had such a terrible year. It was hard to feel patriotic.

But last week everything changed. We watched speeches by Barak and Livni about how after eight years, something had to be done and they were going to do it. Avi felt they were finally apologizing to the people of this area for ignoring their suffering for so long. No one is happy that there is a war, that we are bombing Gaza, and that innocent people will suffer as a result. But the people here feel that finally the government is addressing what has been an unbearable situation. Yesterday, Yossi’s job included hanging up Israeli flags all over the city, and he was interviewed on Channel Two saying, “I’m finally proud to be part of the country and to put up the flag.”

When I went out of the house this morning, there they were. Hundreds of blue and white flags, shiny and new, on every lamppost and lining every street. It was a beautiful sunny day, and as I turned down one particular street – the street where Avi proposed to me — I saw hundreds of blue Stars of David staring back at me.

It’s hard to live here and not wonder, “Will we survive? As a country? As a people?” I have been thinking this on a daily basis, and last night went to bed in tears after a stressful argument with a friend on this very topic. But somehow seeing that row of flags made me feel better. Maybe we won’t make it. But we’ve got to do everything we can to try. Here in Sderot, we are part of a country again. And as a people, a nation, we have history on our side. The flags and those two thoughts are going to get me through this war.

Well, it’s definitely been a couple of weeks. So here’s the update.

Christmas Eve

The strangest thing about Christmas in Jerusalem is how normal the day felt. Stores were open, people were all around. No Christmas lights, or Silent Night on an endless loop. To be honest, it didn’t feel like Christmas at all.

Since Chinese food is hard to find, and the movie theater is far away, we decided to fore go the usual Christmas Eve festivities.  So what to do instead? Well, Jess and I ended up doing different things, but in the same line of though. So what did we do? Well…we went to Midnight Mass. Ironically, in Jerusalem it seems like a cool thing to go to Midnight Mass and see how Christians celebrate. In the states, I would probably never go to Mass. Figure that out?

Well, Jess went with her friend Nikki (grew up Catholic and converted to Judaism about 4 years ago) to a service in the area, while I went with a few people to Bethlehem to see how Christmas is celebrated in the city where Christ was born.

I’m not sure what I expected in Bethlehem. First off, it’s in the West Bank. We needed to bring our passports and go through a security checkpoint to get in. Once across the fence, the entire landscape changed. We went from nicely paved roads, nicer buildings, and Hebrew signs, to very rundown, dirty, and Arabic signs. It was a bit of culture shock, and it was only about 30 minutes from where I live!

We got there a few hours early and they had this whole concert set-up. The weird part of it was, they had a lot of the groups were singing in Spanish. Huh? They would say all of these pro-Palestinian lines at the end, but again it was in Spanish, so nobody was really listening until they said something like ‘Viva Palestinian!” and then everybody would cheer.

Around midnight, we tried to get into the services, but tickets had been sold out for weeks. This is the service that a lot of the big wigs show up to. Supposedly Abbas was there. Outside of the building were a ton of dignitary limo’s with flags from all different parts of the world represented.

We were able to go into the Church of the Nativity by entering the ‘Door of Humility’. Basically it’s a door that is about 4 feet high, so you have to bow to enter or exit. From there, we were able to go to an alcove and listen in to the services, which we did for a few minutes. Unfortunately, we had no clue what was going on, so it wasn’t that impressive.

The most interesting part was just walking around and watching the people. Palestinians were walking around in Santa outfits handing out pro-Palestinian rhetoric. People were there to celebrate, others were there for the free music and festive atmosphere. It was a cold night, and tons of people were walking around selling two from what looked like the tea kettle from their house.

Jessica on the other hand, went to the entire midnight mass, and probably had a much more interesting experience since she was able to get the play-by-play.

New Year’s Eve

So one of the students organized a New Year’s Eve celebration for any of the students that wanted to join. She rented out a bar, organized the open bar, decorated the place, and bought snacks. The theme? Prom. So you know what this means? In the mighty words of Barney….SUIT UP!  So everyone got all gussied up in the finest clothes that they brought to Israel.

Ever weeks of trying to get up the courage, I finally was able to ask the girl I was interested in if she wanted to go to Prom with me. Thankfully, she hadn’t been asked yet and said yes. So Wednesday night finally came along, and I showed up to pick up my date in my finest suit. There was much dancing and hanging out with friends, and midnight came and went.

Overall, a very fun evening. To top off the evening, we caught up with almost all of Jess’s family on Skype.

Packing and Finals

So this week is Finals for Jess. She has had 2 ten page papers to finish, one oral exam in chanting Torah, and 4 additional tests. Needless to say, she has been a bit stressed. As of right now, she is over half done as she handed in both papers, took both the oral exam, and one of the written exams. I’m just tired thinking about all of the work she is doing. Right now, her and a friend are studying Hebrew in the main room.

We are also leaving for Africa late Thursday night (Jess’s last final is Thursday morning). So this week, I’ve been finishing up work and trying to remember where I placed all of the things that I want to make sure to bring with us to Kenya and Tanzania.

This will probably be the last post for a little bit. If we have the opportunity, we’ll try and post while we are traveling, but if not…there will be a long post when we get back with hopefully a ton of pictures!

So apparently, we haven’t been very vocal about our plans for winter break. Instead of telling you where we’re going…I thought I would bring in some video and just show you:

Yup, we’re going to Kenya & Tanzania! We’ll be spending 10 days on safari, followed by a couple of days relaxing on the island of Zanzibar. Our trip starts on January 9th and we will be back on Jan 23rd. Sadly, we will miss Obama’s inauguration, so hopefully I’ll be able to find an online source to watch it.

I’ll be posting pictures and travel journals to this blog, so keep checking back. We’re bringing both cameras, so hopefully we’ll get some great pictures and hopefully we’ll get some good video to put on the site also.

Ah the multi-week updates. That is what I get (and unfortunately you get) for my laziness

Thanksgiving

While it was hard to be away from the family for Thanksgiving, it was nice to have a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. Some of the students organized a ‘potluck’ dinner that had all the traditional elements including 4 turkeys, lots of stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, apple pie, etc. It was definitely a fun night with lots of food. Some of the students even recorded one of the football games and showed it after dinner (although we had already headed back at that point, since we had house guests.

Speaking of house guests, we got to celebrate Noam and Valerie’s engagement the night before Thanksgiving and then get to hang out with them after Thanksgiving and had a game night.

Jess lead Services at HUC

Each week one or two of the Rabbinic students work with a cantor and lead services. Last week, Jess was in charge. The weekend before, Jess was incredibly busy being that we had houseguests for the full weekend, she had 2 papers due, homework assignments, and also needed to work with the Cantorial student to prepare for the service. Needless to say, she was busy, but in the end did a great job leading services. From what I’ve heard, the negative/constructive feedback was on more trivial details while the overall feedback was very positive.

I must say on from the outsiders perspective, that after 5 months of being in school and learning hebrew, and about Israel, it was really nice to see Jess in the role as a Rabbi. It’s sometimes easy to forget that is why she is studying (for me at least…).

Rachel’s Birthday

After people die, I like to try to honor their life on their birthday. This may include telling funny stories, or eating their favorite food, etc. Last year, our friend Rachel died, and her birthday was on Dec. 3rd. Rachel’s favorite thing to do was to go to Ben & Jerry’s (no matter how much snow there was) and eat a vermonster with her friends.  Well, the Cleveland crew were getting together to head to Ben & jerry’s and we were quite sad that we could not be there also.

Instead, we invited our friends over to our house and picked up a bunch of pints of Ben & Jerry’s. Not quite the same thing, but the spirit was there.

Hiking with HUC

Well, it wasn’t really hiking with HUC, but with a few of Jess’s fellow students. The head of the choir is a very avid hiker, and often times organizes hikes that any of the HUC students (and friends) can join in on. The hikes range from easy day hikes to multi-day backpacking adventures. This past weekend, we had a 2-day camping trip about an hour outside of Jerusalem. During the day we hiked, and at night we had a primitive camping experience, which is car camping, but without the facilities.

One of the amazing things about the hikes is that you’re always coming upon ruins. We kept running into fences that were from the Ottaman era, or the Byzantine era, or this cave that has pigeons holes…but they’re not sure how old it is, etc. History is everywhere, just waiting to be found. You can just look down and pick up pieces of pottery shards.

The hikes were on the easier side, but still enjoyable to get out and stretch the legs. Jess and I haven’t had a chance to get out and go hiking in quite a while, and we haven’t gone camping in a really long time. So it was nice to spend a weekend away from Jerusalem, away from the honking, away from homework, and the computer, and the internet. It was nice to just hang out by the campfire, play cards with friends, and talk.

Dad’s Birthday

So after commenting on Rachel’s birthday, I’m having a hard time trying to figure out what to do today to honor Dad. In some ways, it’s weird to think that he’s been gone for almost 4 and half years. It’s weird to think how much of my life has changes since he died. None of those thoughts really help me honor his life.

So here is my question for you…if you knew Dad, what are you doing to honor his life?

Last weekend, I went on a hike with an Israeli hiking club. I knew one other person on the hike who is American by birth, but has now become an Israeli citizen.  The hiking club is known for being a ‘hard-core’ hiking club. You basically hike with water and food for the day, and then end up back at camp. The next day, you do another intensive hike.

Our hike started at the Dead Sea. For those that remember, the Dead Sea is the lowest place on Earth at 420meters (1377 feet) below sea level. Needless to say, it is very bizarre to hike up the side of the mountain, and get to this amazing beautiful viewpoint of the Dead Sea, and you’re still below sea level. Hiking in the desert is a beautiful experience. The harsh beauty is something that everyone should get to see. Although, everytime I’m in the desert I keep wondering, why people are fighting over this land. it’s beautiful and all….but I’d rather be fighting over a beautiful lush land with mountains and valleys, with rivers, and not a desolate wasteland. It also amazes me that people live and survive in the desert.

So the first day we hiked 10 miles and that hike was okay. The second day, we hiked 15.5 miles and it was much more intense. We gained 800meters of elevation, ending up on a peak with a beautiful panaromic view of the desert. From the peak, we could also see Jerusalem. It felt like we could have just walked there instead of back to the bus.

Overall, the people were good. I ended up hiking out with my friend, her boyfriend, and one of their friends. Her friend was gracious enough to translate what the guide was telling us and they were also nice and spoke in English for my benefit. Most of the rest of the people on the hike spoke hebrew, although would say things in Englsih to me. It was a good experience, and definitely a great way to see a different part of the country. Now that my body has recovered, I’m ready to go again….

Jessica + Chad Update

On the home front, Jess and I are both recovering from being sick. Jess got sick, and then a few days later I also got sick. It’s been going around HUC, so it was our turn. Jess also just completely a big Second Temple history test that was stressing her out. Their first big test, the teacher kind of blind sided them with all of this information that they were supposed to know, and it was very stressful and people were very upset. So, everyone was stressing that this test was going to be similar. Instead, the teacher said what was on the test, and that was what was on the test. So everyone (including Jess), felt much more confident and in better spirits after this one.

Throughout the year, the Rabbinic students and the Cantorial students pair off to lead Monday morning services. Jess’s service is on Dec 1, and she has been actively preparing for that. You think, it’s just a service, but there are a lot of prayers that they do here that we didn’t learn in our reform synagogues back home. Guess Reform Judaism is becoming more observant.

Another one of my friends was in from New York, so we got to see her for dinner. It’s always nice to see visitors who know a different part of Jerusalem then we do. It seems I always learn about a new spot, or meet some new people because of it.

Two weeks ago, my old co-worker Noam and his girlfriend, Val, came to visit. They were riding on a Jerusalem-Eilat bike ride. Well, I’d like to congragulate them, because along the way Val got a huge surprise when Noam proposed to her! On Wednesday, they are arriving back in Jerusalem, and all of the Israeli Teva-niks are getting together to celebrate their Simcha (Joy!).

This past weekend, we had a chance to catch up with a group of old friends. On Friday, my friend Noam and Valerie, his girlfriend, came to Jerusalem to visit us and to get ready for a cross-Israel bike ride. Seems like everytime we get together, there is always something else going on that is distracting us. Last year, Noam was at the wedding, but we were running around trying to see everyone. In June, we were both teaching and working at the Teva Seminar for Jewish Environmental Education. So needless to say, it was great to have some quality time with them and to get to know Val.

We also got to spend shabbat with some other old friends from when I was working at Teva. A few years back, a bunch of co-workers made aliyah, became Israeli citiznes, and are now living in and around Jerusalem. With Noam in town, we decided to all get together for Shabbat. It is amazing how things can change so much in 6 years, yet remain the same. Shabbat included 3 kids running around, yet the Teva-niks were still the same amazing people.

A nice thing about having Noam around is that he knows Jerusalem pretty well. So he took us into the Arab shuk, market, for some delicious dessert that I can’t remember the name of. We went to this place that is called ‘The Little Wall’. Basically, the Western Wall where Jews pray is a small part of the overall wall that the Orthodox run and manage. The ‘Little Wall’ is a stretch further north that is not run by the Orthodox. So it has the advantage that men and women can pray together and you can also pray in your own way without feeling like you’re going to be harassed by the religious Jews.

Football

Football went a lot better this week. We still got killed, but at least we scored a touchdown this time. As for me, I can actually walk today, and my muscles aren’t as sore as they were last week.

Hiking

This weekend, I’m going on a two-day intensive hike with an Israeli hiking club. I know one other English speaker, also a former Teva-nik, on the hike. Unfortunately, none of the HUC students could join us this time.

Google Translate

One of the difficulties I keep running into is all hebrew websites. For instance, the registration form on the hiking club’s website is all in hebrew. How do I fill out the form, if I can’t read it. Then I discovered that Google Translate now does Hebrew to English. You can either copy or paste the hebrew in, or you can direct the program to a specific web page, and it translates it for you. It’s not perfect, but takes a lot less time then going to the Hebrew-English dictionary. Here is the above registration form in english. Not bad, huh?

A Jessica update

Most of the updates have been about me, so here is some info about Jess. She’s busy. Between school, homework, her community service projects, and the community choir that she is a part of her time disappears quickly. On top of it all, HUC encourages them to go to a bunch of other programs during their free time. So this Friday (while I’m on my hike), she is going to be busy with HUC programs pretty much the entire day.

As for school, she is still enjoying it. She describes it as ‘High School’. School starts at 8:30 and normally goes to 4:30. They have different classes with different teachers. They have lockers and a cafeteria. Everyone takes out in the quad between classes, etc. Like High School, there are some classes and teachers she likes better then others, but is still learning a ton.

Hopefully, Jess will have some free time and be able to give an update of her own…but until then…you’re stuck with me.

Sadly, Halloween isn’t celebrated in Israel. That didn’t stop the Rabbinic students from having a Halloween party. It amazes me the custom ideas people came up with in a city that doesn’t really have costume shops or thrift stores. I think I’m inspired to have a $10 or under Halloween party next year. People definitely get more creative. There was a guy dressed as a bathroom wall….including graffiti pen to write on his shirt, a Facebook profile, and of course…Sarah Palin. She actually won the best costume vote, and hopefully that is the only vote she wins :-) Jess and I dressed up as Captain Hammer and Dr. Horrible. 2 characters from an internet musical created by Joss Whedon. If you haven’t seen it yet, you should go to http://www.drhorrible.com and download it. Well worth the $6 if you have to download it. Be warned, the music will get stuck in your head!

I’ve also heard that some people are having issues seeing the photos. If you are, please email me and let me know what browser you are using and what version.

So everyonce in a while, I just feel like writing about a bunch of smaller topics, so here goes.

It’s Cold

Ok, not really cold as midwest goes…but man, these buildings really don’t have insulation. It’s in the mid 60′s right now, and I’m already in sweatshirt, pants, shoes, and drinking hot tea. Of course, I could turn on the heat…but I’m stubborn and electricity is expensive.

Scuba Diving

I needed to renew my visa (it’s good for 3 months), so I headed down to Eilat for a couple of days. I made a 5 minute cross into Egypt to get my visa renewed, and also went on 3 dives. For those of you who don’t dive, 3 dives is exhausting. Not necessarily physically exhausting, but there is so much nitrogen in your system, that you just feel zonked (that is the actual clinical word for it….).

Some people go to temple, church, or a mosque to feel connected with something bigger then they are. I guess I go SCUBA diving. Diving is one of the few times in my life where my mind is just focused on what I am doing at this exact moment. It’s not thinking about work,  or who I need to call, or what I want for dinner. Focused on relaxing and breathing. Focused on observing the amazing diversity of life. For a perpetual multi-tasker, this is pretty impressive.

Sukkot (Festival of Booths)

So in hindsight, I’m saddened by the fact that I never went around Jerusalem taking pictures of the sukkot (booths) that were set-up. For those that don’t know, 2 weeks ago was the Festival of Booths. A week long harvest festival where you traditionally build these four walled temporary shelters and then you eat and sleep in them. Growing up, we always had one at Temple, but never really followed the tradition of eating and sleeping in them. Walking around Jerusalem and seeing them everywhere is pretty special. The Great Synaoguge had a humongous one that was at least 50ft x 50ft…but probably bigger. Other ones were tiny. Restaurants set them up outside so that people can eat there and still fulfill the commandment of eating in the sukkah.

A friend of mine took pictures of the different sukkot, and here is a link to his blog.

Voting

Our absentee ballots finally arrived on Monday. So Monday night, Jess and I sat down and cast our Ohio absentee ballots. Absentee ballots have to be postmarked before the 4th of November and arrive on or before the 14th…so we spent an extra dollar or two to make sure it gets there in time.

I hope all of you are either planning to vote on Tuesday or have already voted.

I feel that this year, people even more polarized about the candidates then in past years. So I’m not going to get into which candidate you should vote for, but I do feel that it is important that everyone votes. So evenif you disagree with me politically, I still encourage you to get to the polling stations and vote.

The Jewish holidays are finally over and live and school will go back to normal. It also means that are break for Sukkot is also done. For Sukkot, we went with our friends Nikki and Rachel to the Haifa area in the north, and then Jess and I traveled south into the Negev.

Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea

Ein Gedi is a beaitufl river valley not far from the Dead Sea. The main thing to do is go on the short hike and swim in the falls. If you’re looking you might see Ibex (which we did) and Gazelle.

We stopped at a beach that included a gorgeous restaurant and a pretty clean beach. If you’ve never been in the Dead Sea, it’s quite an experience. You don’t even need to try. It’s so calm and easy that you could bring out a book and read while just floating in the sea between Israel and Jordan.

Caesarea

Ceasarea is a city that was originally built over 2000 years ago and has since been modified and changed throughout the years. Walking around it was nice, but like most ruins, you just get hot. You also have to have a pretty good imagination as to what the place would have looked like back in the day. Thankfully, there was a pretty modern movie that had some 3D recreations of what they think the city looked like. The most impressive part of the city is completely gone and only available to see if you go on a scuba trip into the ruins of the harbor. This harbor was huge, and made all the more impressive in that it was made without any modern conveniences like tractors and dredging equipment.

Haifa

Haifa itself is a port city in the Northwest of Israel. Much of the city is pretty unassuming, except for the Baha’i gardens. My knowledge of the Bahai faith is limited to what a friend of a friend told me 10 years ago, so instead of trying to describe their faith, you can go to the wikipedia entry to find out more information.

The gardens themselves are absolutely gorgeous. Physically, they are impressive. Covering the side of Mt. Carmel with 18 terraces of lush green beauty. As it is a holy place, access to most of the gardens is limited. You can enter an overlook at the top and a garden near the actual Shrine of the Bab anytime during the day. But that is about 5% of the whole gardens. They have tours that take you through the top half of the gardens, but we missed out on that. The bottom half is pretty much off limits to everyone but pilgrams making their way to the shrine. The shrine is open and available to the public between 9 and noon. There is one proviso, none of the sections are open when it is raining. And it rained both mornings that we attempted to go to the gardens. D’oh!

Rosh HaNikra

The Israeli costline is pretty flat and full of beaches all the way up to the Lebanese border. At the border, the coastline becomes a beautiful cliff face with these large grottos that they have built paths that you can walk through and around.

Akko (Acre)

Akko is another ancient city with a turbelant past. It has been around since the days of the greeks in 333 BC,  and since has traded hands between the Egyptians, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks, Ottoman Empire, Turks, British, and now is a part of Israel.  Phew. The main section that we walked around was the Old City. Walking around old walled cities is amazing. Old cities that still have a population living within the walls in a non-touristy fashion is even coolor. Just the small narrow streets underneath covered archways that span imbetween the buildings. Walking through the market place that are selling things beyond cheesy touristy stuff. In fact, I was amazed at how many cheap toy stores there were.

While walking around, our main stops included the old Citadel, Al-Jazzar Mosque, and the harbor.

Mitzpe Ramon

Our adventure then took us south of Jerusalem into the Negev (desert). Maktesh Ramon (The Ramon Crater) is the largest natural crater in the world. We stayed at Sukkah Bamidbar aka Tents in the Desert.  The place consisted of 7+ small primitive (no bathroom and a single solar panel for lights) huts of various sizes. The place also had a communal eating area and some gardens and some animal pens. Bathroom facilities were of the camping variety, which meant you either walked away from your cabin and went in the desert or there was an outhouse. The place was definitely not for everyone, but was great to spend some time experiencing a little bit of what life in the desert must have been like.

I can see why people fall in love with the desert. It is beautiful and stark. I’m constantly amazed at how much life can exist in a place with such harsh conditions.

While in the town of Mitzpe Ramon, we stopped at the visitors center, Bio Ramon (they have some of the desert critters on display in their native environments), and an Alpaca/Llama farm. We also drove down in the crater and went on a canyon hike.

On the way back, we stopped at Ben Gurion’s grave and his house on Sde Boker. Also went for a short hike to a cold water spring in a beautiful canyon.  As luck would have it, my camera battery died…so alas…no pictures…this time.

Other stuff

When we’re driving around, I constantly have thoughts and ideas that I’d like to share with you all. Of course, now that I’m writing I can’t remember any of them. Must be in the family genes.

Things are quieting down now that the holidays are over and we can get back on a regular schedule. Jess is at class right now, and I’m at home either working or if there isn’t work…finding something fun to do. We have some friends that are coming out to visit Israel (and in turn us) in November, so that is exciting. I need to make a border crossing in the next 3 weeks so that I don’t overstay my Visa.

So I’m curious what you’d like to hear more about. Travels? Classes? Jewish Life?

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