Year in Israel


Well, it’s definitely been a couple of weeks. So here’s the update.

Christmas Eve

The strangest thing about Christmas in Jerusalem is how normal the day felt. Stores were open, people were all around. No Christmas lights, or Silent Night on an endless loop. To be honest, it didn’t feel like Christmas at all.

Since Chinese food is hard to find, and the movie theater is far away, we decided to fore go the usual Christmas Eve festivities.  So what to do instead? Well, Jess and I ended up doing different things, but in the same line of though. So what did we do? Well…we went to Midnight Mass. Ironically, in Jerusalem it seems like a cool thing to go to Midnight Mass and see how Christians celebrate. In the states, I would probably never go to Mass. Figure that out?

Well, Jess went with her friend Nikki (grew up Catholic and converted to Judaism about 4 years ago) to a service in the area, while I went with a few people to Bethlehem to see how Christmas is celebrated in the city where Christ was born.

I’m not sure what I expected in Bethlehem. First off, it’s in the West Bank. We needed to bring our passports and go through a security checkpoint to get in. Once across the fence, the entire landscape changed. We went from nicely paved roads, nicer buildings, and Hebrew signs, to very rundown, dirty, and Arabic signs. It was a bit of culture shock, and it was only about 30 minutes from where I live!

We got there a few hours early and they had this whole concert set-up. The weird part of it was, they had a lot of the groups were singing in Spanish. Huh? They would say all of these pro-Palestinian lines at the end, but again it was in Spanish, so nobody was really listening until they said something like ‘Viva Palestinian!” and then everybody would cheer.

Around midnight, we tried to get into the services, but tickets had been sold out for weeks. This is the service that a lot of the big wigs show up to. Supposedly Abbas was there. Outside of the building were a ton of dignitary limo’s with flags from all different parts of the world represented.

We were able to go into the Church of the Nativity by entering the ‘Door of Humility’. Basically it’s a door that is about 4 feet high, so you have to bow to enter or exit. From there, we were able to go to an alcove and listen in to the services, which we did for a few minutes. Unfortunately, we had no clue what was going on, so it wasn’t that impressive.

The most interesting part was just walking around and watching the people. Palestinians were walking around in Santa outfits handing out pro-Palestinian rhetoric. People were there to celebrate, others were there for the free music and festive atmosphere. It was a cold night, and tons of people were walking around selling two from what looked like the tea kettle from their house.

Jessica on the other hand, went to the entire midnight mass, and probably had a much more interesting experience since she was able to get the play-by-play.

DSC_0061DSC_0063DSC_0066DSC_0067DSC_0078DSC_0071DSC_0084DSC_0088DSC_0092DSC_0098DSC_0099DSC_0103DSC_0060DSC_0057DSC_0043DSC_0040DSC_0038DSC_0033DSC_0018DSC_0013DSC_0010

New Year’s Eve

So one of the students organized a New Year’s Eve celebration for any of the students that wanted to join. She rented out a bar, organized the open bar, decorated the place, and bought snacks. The theme? Prom. So you know what this means? In the mighty words of Barney….SUIT UP!  So everyone got all gussied up in the finest clothes that they brought to Israel.

Ever weeks of trying to get up the courage, I finally was able to ask the girl I was interested in if she wanted to go to Prom with me. Thankfully, she hadn’t been asked yet and said yes. So Wednesday night finally came along, and I showed up to pick up my date in my finest suit. There was much dancing and hanging out with friends, and midnight came and went.

Overall, a very fun evening. To top off the evening, we caught up with almost all of Jess’s family on Skype.

Chad and JessDaniel and JessicaDan and LuanneLisa and JimJosh and AmyRena and JillianGavin and BethJason and JimNikki and JessicaJessica and JessicaJason and SarahSarah, Jason, Rena, and JillianLauren, Jon and SarahSome relaxing time on the couchJason and SarahLauren, Jaclyn, and AriMore dancing shotsJosh and DeenaMore self portraitsNikki and DeenaAmy and Rachel dancingAh...gotta love the self portraits

Packing and Finals

So this week is Finals for Jess. She has had 2 ten page papers to finish, one oral exam in chanting Torah, and 4 additional tests. Needless to say, she has been a bit stressed. As of right now, she is over half done as she handed in both papers, took both the oral exam, and one of the written exams. I’m just tired thinking about all of the work she is doing. Right now, her and a friend are studying Hebrew in the main room.

We are also leaving for Africa late Thursday night (Jess’s last final is Thursday morning). So this week, I’ve been finishing up work and trying to remember where I placed all of the things that I want to make sure to bring with us to Kenya and Tanzania.

This will probably be the last post for a little bit. If we have the opportunity, we’ll try and post while we are traveling, but if not…there will be a long post when we get back with hopefully a ton of pictures!

So apparently, we haven’t been very vocal about our plans for winter break. Instead of telling you where we’re going…I thought I would bring in some video and just show you:

Yup, we’re going to Kenya & Tanzania! We’ll be spending 10 days on safari, followed by a couple of days relaxing on the island of Zanzibar. Our trip starts on January 9th and we will be back on Jan 23rd. Sadly, we will miss Obama’s inauguration, so hopefully I’ll be able to find an online source to watch it.

I’ll be posting pictures and travel journals to this blog, so keep checking back. We’re bringing both cameras, so hopefully we’ll get some great pictures and hopefully we’ll get some good video to put on the site also.

Ah the multi-week updates. That is what I get (and unfortunately you get) for my laziness

Thanksgiving

While it was hard to be away from the family for Thanksgiving, it was nice to have a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. Some of the students organized a ‘potluck’ dinner that had all the traditional elements including 4 turkeys, lots of stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, apple pie, etc. It was definitely a fun night with lots of food. Some of the students even recorded one of the football games and showed it after dinner (although we had already headed back at that point, since we had house guests.

Speaking of house guests, we got to celebrate Noam and Valerie’s engagement the night before Thanksgiving and then get to hang out with them after Thanksgiving and had a game night.

Noam and Valerie celebrate their engagement.The HUC crew get together to celebrate a traditional Thanksgiving in Jerusalem.Chad and JessChad, Jess and Ann enjoy some turkeyThe HUC crew get together to celebrate a traditional Thanksgiving in Jerusalem.The HUC crew get together to celebrate a traditional Thanksgiving in Jerusalem.Dan and LuanneAnn and Valerie trying out Wii Boxing

Jess lead Services at HUC

Each week one or two of the Rabbinic students work with a cantor and lead services. Last week, Jess was in charge. The weekend before, Jess was incredibly busy being that we had houseguests for the full weekend, she had 2 papers due, homework assignments, and also needed to work with the Cantorial student to prepare for the service. Needless to say, she was busy, but in the end did a great job leading services. From what I’ve heard, the negative/constructive feedback was on more trivial details while the overall feedback was very positive.

I must say on from the outsiders perspective, that after 5 months of being in school and learning hebrew, and about Israel, it was really nice to see Jess in the role as a Rabbi. It’s sometimes easy to forget that is why she is studying (for me at least…).

Rachel’s Birthday

After people die, I like to try to honor their life on their birthday. This may include telling funny stories, or eating their favorite food, etc. Last year, our friend Rachel died, and her birthday was on Dec. 3rd. Rachel’s favorite thing to do was to go to Ben & Jerry’s (no matter how much snow there was) and eat a vermonster with her friends.  Well, the Cleveland crew were getting together to head to Ben & jerry’s and we were quite sad that we could not be there also.

Instead, we invited our friends over to our house and picked up a bunch of pints of Ben & Jerry’s. Not quite the same thing, but the spirit was there.

Hiking with HUC

Well, it wasn’t really hiking with HUC, but with a few of Jess’s fellow students. The head of the choir is a very avid hiker, and often times organizes hikes that any of the HUC students (and friends) can join in on. The hikes range from easy day hikes to multi-day backpacking adventures. This past weekend, we had a 2-day camping trip about an hour outside of Jerusalem. During the day we hiked, and at night we had a primitive camping experience, which is car camping, but without the facilities.

One of the amazing things about the hikes is that you’re always coming upon ruins. We kept running into fences that were from the Ottaman era, or the Byzantine era, or this cave that has pigeons holes…but they’re not sure how old it is, etc. History is everywhere, just waiting to be found. You can just look down and pick up pieces of pottery shards.

The hikes were on the easier side, but still enjoyable to get out and stretch the legs. Jess and I haven’t had a chance to get out and go hiking in quite a while, and we haven’t gone camping in a really long time. So it was nice to spend a weekend away from Jerusalem, away from the honking, away from homework, and the computer, and the internet. It was nice to just hang out by the campfire, play cards with friends, and talk.

A cistern we foundEntering a caveThe walls were chalk and limestoneThe cave wallsInteresting formationsThe opening in the roofMore cave wallsVery high cavesThe nooks are where they kept pigeonsMore pigeon nooksJim eating salami and mustardI'm not really sure what they call our dinnerJim and some barbed wire fenceJess taking 5IsA cool plantA chameleon iguana like thing we found on the trailA view of the roadA pillar we found in a buried basementThe entrance to the basementGoats in a goat penThis place makes great goat cheese

Dad’s Birthday

So after commenting on Rachel’s birthday, I’m having a hard time trying to figure out what to do today to honor Dad. In some ways, it’s weird to think that he’s been gone for almost 4 and half years. It’s weird to think how much of my life has changes since he died. None of those thoughts really help me honor his life.

So here is my question for you…if you knew Dad, what are you doing to honor his life?

Last weekend, I went on a hike with an Israeli hiking club. I knew one other person on the hike who is American by birth, but has now become an Israeli citizen.  The hiking club is known for being a ‘hard-core’ hiking club. You basically hike with water and food for the day, and then end up back at camp. The next day, you do another intensive hike.

Our hike started at the Dead Sea. For those that remember, the Dead Sea is the lowest place on Earth at 420meters (1377 feet) below sea level. Needless to say, it is very bizarre to hike up the side of the mountain, and get to this amazing beautiful viewpoint of the Dead Sea, and you’re still below sea level. Hiking in the desert is a beautiful experience. The harsh beauty is something that everyone should get to see. Although, everytime I’m in the desert I keep wondering, why people are fighting over this land. it’s beautiful and all….but I’d rather be fighting over a beautiful lush land with mountains and valleys, with rivers, and not a desolate wasteland. It also amazes me that people live and survive in the desert.

So the first day we hiked 10 miles and that hike was okay. The second day, we hiked 15.5 miles and it was much more intense. We gained 800meters of elevation, ending up on a peak with a beautiful panaromic view of the desert. From the peak, we could also see Jerusalem. It felt like we could have just walked there instead of back to the bus.

Overall, the people were good. I ended up hiking out with my friend, her boyfriend, and one of their friends. Her friend was gracious enough to translate what the guide was telling us and they were also nice and spoke in English for my benefit. Most of the rest of the people on the hike spoke hebrew, although would say things in Englsih to me. It was a good experience, and definitely a great way to see a different part of the country. Now that my body has recovered, I’m ready to go again….

Hiking up the side of the mountain with the Dead Sea in the distanceThe cliff wallsThe mud plains near the Dead Sea.Gotta love the signs!A Wadi (Canyon)The desert above the Dead SeaHiking through the beautiful, but deslotate desert.We came upon this river canyonWe had to jump across to continue the hikeOh...it's a sh*t river!A nice reminder to pay attention where you site!Hiking along the ridge lineClimbing (or sliding) down the mountainSunset hits the Dead SeaSliding down the side of the mountain isn't the easiest or safest way to get down.Sunrise hits the Dead Sea. It also happens to be Moon set time.A canyon empties into the Dead SeaSlot CanyonA shepherd's watering holeThe sand steps in the side of the mountains.A nature formation of flint in the side of the mountainRun into a donkey at the top of the mountainThe view of Jerusalem across the desert.Hiking down a scree fieldHiking through the slot canyon.Hiking through the slot canyon.A Bedouins Camels

Jessica + Chad Update

On the home front, Jess and I are both recovering from being sick. Jess got sick, and then a few days later I also got sick. It’s been going around HUC, so it was our turn. Jess also just completely a big Second Temple history test that was stressing her out. Their first big test, the teacher kind of blind sided them with all of this information that they were supposed to know, and it was very stressful and people were very upset. So, everyone was stressing that this test was going to be similar. Instead, the teacher said what was on the test, and that was what was on the test. So everyone (including Jess), felt much more confident and in better spirits after this one.

Throughout the year, the Rabbinic students and the Cantorial students pair off to lead Monday morning services. Jess’s service is on Dec 1, and she has been actively preparing for that. You think, it’s just a service, but there are a lot of prayers that they do here that we didn’t learn in our reform synagogues back home. Guess Reform Judaism is becoming more observant.

Another one of my friends was in from New York, so we got to see her for dinner. It’s always nice to see visitors who know a different part of Jerusalem then we do. It seems I always learn about a new spot, or meet some new people because of it.

Two weeks ago, my old co-worker Noam and his girlfriend, Val, came to visit. They were riding on a Jerusalem-Eilat bike ride. Well, I’d like to congragulate them, because along the way Val got a huge surprise when Noam proposed to her! On Wednesday, they are arriving back in Jerusalem, and all of the Israeli Teva-niks are getting together to celebrate their Simcha (Joy!).

This past weekend, we had a chance to catch up with a group of old friends. On Friday, my friend Noam and Valerie, his girlfriend, came to Jerusalem to visit us and to get ready for a cross-Israel bike ride. Seems like everytime we get together, there is always something else going on that is distracting us. Last year, Noam was at the wedding, but we were running around trying to see everyone. In June, we were both teaching and working at the Teva Seminar for Jewish Environmental Education. So needless to say, it was great to have some quality time with them and to get to know Val.

We also got to spend shabbat with some other old friends from when I was working at Teva. A few years back, a bunch of co-workers made aliyah, became Israeli citiznes, and are now living in and around Jerusalem. With Noam in town, we decided to all get together for Shabbat. It is amazing how things can change so much in 6 years, yet remain the same. Shabbat included 3 kids running around, yet the Teva-niks were still the same amazing people.

A nice thing about having Noam around is that he knows Jerusalem pretty well. So he took us into the Arab shuk, market, for some delicious dessert that I can’t remember the name of. We went to this place that is called ‘The Little Wall’. Basically, the Western Wall where Jews pray is a small part of the overall wall that the Orthodox run and manage. The ‘Little Wall’ is a stretch further north that is not run by the Orthodox. So it has the advantage that men and women can pray together and you can also pray in your own way without feeling like you’re going to be harassed by the religious Jews.

Football

Football went a lot better this week. We still got killed, but at least we scored a touchdown this time. As for me, I can actually walk today, and my muscles aren’t as sore as they were last week.

Hiking

This weekend, I’m going on a two-day intensive hike with an Israeli hiking club. I know one other English speaker, also a former Teva-nik, on the hike. Unfortunately, none of the HUC students could join us this time.

Google Translate

One of the difficulties I keep running into is all hebrew websites. For instance, the registration form on the hiking club’s website is all in hebrew. How do I fill out the form, if I can’t read it. Then I discovered that Google Translate now does Hebrew to English. You can either copy or paste the hebrew in, or you can direct the program to a specific web page, and it translates it for you. It’s not perfect, but takes a lot less time then going to the Hebrew-English dictionary. Here is the above registration form in english. Not bad, huh?

A Jessica update

Most of the updates have been about me, so here is some info about Jess. She’s busy. Between school, homework, her community service projects, and the community choir that she is a part of her time disappears quickly. On top of it all, HUC encourages them to go to a bunch of other programs during their free time. So this Friday (while I’m on my hike), she is going to be busy with HUC programs pretty much the entire day.

As for school, she is still enjoying it. She describes it as ‘High School’. School starts at 8:30 and normally goes to 4:30. They have different classes with different teachers. They have lockers and a cafeteria. Everyone takes out in the quad between classes, etc. Like High School, there are some classes and teachers she likes better then others, but is still learning a ton.

Hopefully, Jess will have some free time and be able to give an update of her own…but until then…you’re stuck with me.

Sadly, Halloween isn’t celebrated in Israel. That didn’t stop the Rabbinic students from having a Halloween party. It amazes me the custom ideas people came up with in a city that doesn’t really have costume shops or thrift stores. I think I’m inspired to have a $10 or under Halloween party next year. People definitely get more creative. There was a guy dressed as a bathroom wall….including graffiti pen to write on his shirt, a Facebook profile, and of course…Sarah Palin. She actually won the best costume vote, and hopefully that is the only vote she wins :-) Jess and I dressed up as Captain Hammer and Dr. Horrible. 2 characters from an internet musical created by Joss Whedon. If you haven’t seen it yet, you should go to http://www.drhorrible.com and download it. Well worth the $6 if you have to download it. Be warned, the music will get stuck in your head!

Bond...Jason BondCaptain Hammer and Dr. HorribleEve, One of the Blind Mice, Cat, Hermione, and Dr. HorribleA Cantalope LanternBrad + AngelinaGotta love the Facebook profileIMG_0055Punk Rock meets Philistine Warrior

I’ve also heard that some people are having issues seeing the photos. If you are, please email me and let me know what browser you are using and what version.

So everyonce in a while, I just feel like writing about a bunch of smaller topics, so here goes.

It’s Cold

Ok, not really cold as midwest goes…but man, these buildings really don’t have insulation. It’s in the mid 60’s right now, and I’m already in sweatshirt, pants, shoes, and drinking hot tea. Of course, I could turn on the heat…but I’m stubborn and electricity is expensive.

Scuba Diving

I needed to renew my visa (it’s good for 3 months), so I headed down to Eilat for a couple of days. I made a 5 minute cross into Egypt to get my visa renewed, and also went on 3 dives. For those of you who don’t dive, 3 dives is exhausting. Not necessarily physically exhausting, but there is so much nitrogen in your system, that you just feel zonked (that is the actual clinical word for it….).

Some people go to temple, church, or a mosque to feel connected with something bigger then they are. I guess I go SCUBA diving. Diving is one of the few times in my life where my mind is just focused on what I am doing at this exact moment. It’s not thinking about work,  or who I need to call, or what I want for dinner. Focused on relaxing and breathing. Focused on observing the amazing diversity of life. For a perpetual multi-tasker, this is pretty impressive.

Sukkot (Festival of Booths)

So in hindsight, I’m saddened by the fact that I never went around Jerusalem taking pictures of the sukkot (booths) that were set-up. For those that don’t know, 2 weeks ago was the Festival of Booths. A week long harvest festival where you traditionally build these four walled temporary shelters and then you eat and sleep in them. Growing up, we always had one at Temple, but never really followed the tradition of eating and sleeping in them. Walking around Jerusalem and seeing them everywhere is pretty special. The Great Synaoguge had a humongous one that was at least 50ft x 50ft…but probably bigger. Other ones were tiny. Restaurants set them up outside so that people can eat there and still fulfill the commandment of eating in the sukkah.

A friend of mine took pictures of the different sukkot, and here is a link to his blog.

Voting

Our absentee ballots finally arrived on Monday. So Monday night, Jess and I sat down and cast our Ohio absentee ballots. Absentee ballots have to be postmarked before the 4th of November and arrive on or before the 14th…so we spent an extra dollar or two to make sure it gets there in time.

I hope all of you are either planning to vote on Tuesday or have already voted.

I feel that this year, people even more polarized about the candidates then in past years. So I’m not going to get into which candidate you should vote for, but I do feel that it is important that everyone votes. So evenif you disagree with me politically, I still encourage you to get to the polling stations and vote.

The Jewish holidays are finally over and live and school will go back to normal. It also means that are break for Sukkot is also done. For Sukkot, we went with our friends Nikki and Rachel to the Haifa area in the north, and then Jess and I traveled south into the Negev.

Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea

Ein Gedi is a beaitufl river valley not far from the Dead Sea. The main thing to do is go on the short hike and swim in the falls. If you’re looking you might see Ibex (which we did) and Gazelle.

We stopped at a beach that included a gorgeous restaurant and a pretty clean beach. If you’ve never been in the Dead Sea, it’s quite an experience. You don’t even need to try. It’s so calm and easy that you could bring out a book and read while just floating in the sea between Israel and Jordan.

Nikki and Rachel enjoying a dip in Ein GediChad and Jessica enjoying a dip in Ein GediEin GediJessNikki and RachelMore falls in Ein GediMountains Near the Dead SeaIbexNikki and Rachel floating in the Dead SeaA guy enjoying a mud bathChad floating in the dead seaUmm...where did the couch go?Window on building near Dead Sea

Caesarea

Ceasarea is a city that was originally built over 2000 years ago and has since been modified and changed throughout the years. Walking around it was nice, but like most ruins, you just get hot. You also have to have a pretty good imagination as to what the place would have looked like back in the day. Thankfully, there was a pretty modern movie that had some 3D recreations of what they think the city looked like. The most impressive part of the city is completely gone and only available to see if you go on a scuba trip into the ruins of the harbor. This harbor was huge, and made all the more impressive in that it was made without any modern conveniences like tractors and dredging equipment.

The Old AquaductPictures at the Old AquaductCross Arch CeilingsTile MosiacsCool archwayPillars at the Promontory PalaceRebuilt Roman Amphitheater

Haifa

Haifa itself is a port city in the Northwest of Israel. Much of the city is pretty unassuming, except for the Baha’i gardens. My knowledge of the Bahai faith is limited to what a friend of a friend told me 10 years ago, so instead of trying to describe their faith, you can go to the wikipedia entry to find out more information.

The gardens themselves are absolutely gorgeous. Physically, they are impressive. Covering the side of Mt. Carmel with 18 terraces of lush green beauty. As it is a holy place, access to most of the gardens is limited. You can enter an overlook at the top and a garden near the actual Shrine of the Bab anytime during the day. But that is about 5% of the whole gardens. They have tours that take you through the top half of the gardens, but we missed out on that. The bottom half is pretty much off limits to everyone but pilgrams making their way to the shrine. The shrine is open and available to the public between 9 and noon. There is one proviso, none of the sections are open when it is raining. And it rained both mornings that we attempted to go to the gardens. D’oh!

Baha'i Shrine of the BabBaha'i Shrine of the BabThe painted dinosaurs were all over HaifaDinosaurs on ParadeMuch sadness when we're not allowed in due to the wet pavement.See...I did come on this trip!Cactus found in the Bahai gardensDSC_0118Cool Tree...and Jess is cute tooView of the Shrine through the GardensElaborate windows on Baha'i ShrineRoof of the Baha'i ShrineDoorway on the Baha'i ShrineBaha'i Shrine of the Bab

Rosh HaNikra

The Israeli costline is pretty flat and full of beaches all the way up to the Lebanese border. At the border, the coastline becomes a beautiful cliff face with these large grottos that they have built paths that you can walk through and around.

I'm not sure what this guy really isThe buoy's designate the Israel/Lebanon border